Hours after the fight, Soe Linn Oo is still bleeding from his scalp and left
eyebrow. His teammate dabs his wounds with egg yolk to stem the blood flow and
plasters on some egg shell for good measure, a traditional remedy that seems to
work. It is all in a day’s work for the young athlete, already one of Myanmar’s top
traditional Burmese boxing (
lethwei in Burmese) fighters. Whatever the
pain, Soe Linn Oo stays focused on why he fights: growing fame and cash to help his
family out of poverty.
Lethwei dates to at least the 11th century and was used by Burmese monks
to defend themselves and by warriors to protect the king. It is now a way for young
men from Myanmar’s impoverished countryside to fight their way to a better life. The
Burmese have long prized their traditional sport, but in recent years, a moneyed,
professional
lethwei league has emerged in Myanmar. The best fighters can
earn prize money of about ten times the $250 a month that white-collar Burmese make.
During matches, spectators also reward the boxers they like by handing the referee
wads of cash for them.
At a training centre in Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon), national coach Yoe Yoe
Thay drills Soe Linn Oo and 16 other top and aspiring boxers in grueling
twice-daily sessions. Most come from poor farming families far from the city, said
Yoe Yoe Thay, himself a famous boxer in the 1990s.
“Some rich guys come to train with us, but they don’t ever fight matches. They’re
scared of injuries,” he says.
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Just 21, Soe Linn Oo is already held up as a hero by many Burmese, particularly the
rural poor, which has suffered the most under five decades of military rule and
whose lives may finally begin to improve with the economic and political reforms the
current government is introducing – with a vocal opposition led by Aung San Suu Kyi
in parliament. With his cherubic face, ready smile and gentle calmness, Soe Linn Oo
is an unlikely fighter. Even when he takes to the ring, he seems to be on the
defensive against his opponents’ aggressive blows before coolly launching into a
tactical fight to win the bout.
Lethwei, to the untrained eye, looks like kick-boxing and wrestling
combined. It appears more brutal than most forms of martial arts. It is like the
more popular Thai kick-boxing (Muay Thai) – where punching and kicking are
allowed – with two key differences: Burmese traditional boxers are allowed to head
butt and they wear mere bandages around their fists rather than gloves.
Just watching at ring-side can be gut-wrenching. As a child, Soe Linn Oo was
frightened of watching matches that his boxer cousin took him to. Later, as a
teenager, he started to learn to fight and won village matches. It provided a way
out of his life as a young worker on rice padi fields and rubber plantations near
their home village of Aye Shin, in Mon State, southeast Myanmar. The youngest of six
children, he had dropped out of school at age 10 because his family was too poor to
let him continue.
When he turned 16, he left home to join a lethwei club funded by a monk in
neighboring Karen State. He was then spotted by visiting coaches and brought to
Yangon three years ago to train as a national athlete. In the five years he has been
boxing full-time, Soe Linn Oo has had his scalp ripped, and nose and lips bloodied,
but has so far escaped serious injury.
“I have heard of other boxers who’ve had arms and legs broken. I know my job is
dangerous but I don’t want to think about that. I’m not an educated person and can’t
get any other job that earns this much,” he says.
He remains envious of his peers who went on to university and have become civil
servants, or even those who became migrant workers in richer nearby countries like
Singapore. But with his kicks and punches, and a strict training regime, he is
earning more money than them – at least for now. As a rising star, he can make more
than 2 million kyat ($2,500) for winning a match. He does an average of ten matches
a year. Those earnings have paid for medical treatment for his father, who had a
stroke three years ago and is partially paralyzed. The cash has also bought his
family – who have slaved on other people’s plots all their lives – a modest two-acre
rubber plantation.
Before each match, Soe Linn Oo – who will represent Myanmar on home ground in the
Southeast Asia Games next year (2013) – visits the sacred Shwedagon Pagoda in the
heart of Yangon. He says: “I pray not to win but for a fair fight. I don’t want to
be seriously injured and I don’t want to badly hurt my opponent.”
“I will keep fighting, until one day, I cannot anymore.”
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